Sunday, November 30, 2008

Chef Olivier Ciesielski wine dinner at 13 Celsius

Being a foodie is kind of like being a junkie — you’re always on the make for your next big score. So it was with great interest that I became aware of a French wine pairing dinner at Houston wine bar 13 Celsius.

This 6 course dinner had all the makings of an exceptional culinary experience. With limited seating and for one night only, a young and talented local chef would collaborate with a creative and inventive Houston wine bar.

Preparing the dinner would be Chef Olivier Ciesielski, formerly of Tony’s and an October ‘07 appearance on Iron Chef America (as part of Charles Clark’s team) against Mario Batali in "Battle: Halibut" (they lost to Batali by one point!).

Pairing the wines with Ciesielski’s menu would be proprietor Mike Sammons of the highly regarded Houston wine bar, 13 Celsius. The dinner would take place at 13 Celsius’ midtown location: a circa-1927 Mediterranean-style building that has been immaculately restored by 13 Celsius partner Ian Rosenberg.

So the stage was set. And yet I had … misgivings. Why? First and foremost, wine pairing dinners are always hit-and-miss affairs. It is both difficult and easy to pull off a dinner of this type — easy because you can put good food and wine in front of most people and they will be happy. Difficult because without a clear vision of the dinner there are a lot of things that can go wrong. Additional doubts arose from the fact that this would be a sophisticated dinner created in a place with no kitchen. And how would the service be in an improvised dining room?

These were all legitimate doubts and questions whose resolution I greatly anticipated upon arrival at 13 Celsius for the second, 9pm seating. Was this ambitious French wine pairing dinner a hit or a miss?


This wine pairing dinner was most definitely a hit, a great success.

By all indications this event was conceived with a sweeping, challenging palette of flavor, texture, pacing, and presentation in both the food and the wine. There was clearly a vision established first by the fall-inspired menu of Chef Ciesielski, and then that was “riffed” on by Mr. Sammons in the wine pairings. With a wine dinner like this the individual success or failure of a dish or pairing is unimportant. This dinner demands to be evaluated as a whole, rather than as a succession of individual parts. I’ll first describe the individual dishes and then try to bring it back full circle with an evaluation of the dinner as a whole.

Food/Drink (8/10)

1st Course

Food: Seasonal hors d’oeurves

Wine: Phillippe Foreau Vouvray Brut

The 1st course was a rapid-fire succession of eclectic amuse-bouches. There were hits and misses. Fortunately the misses were slight and the hits were out of the park.

Legendary chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten has said that “The amuse-bouche is the best way for a great chef to express his big ideas in small bites.” How perfectly applicable to this occasion. Chef Ciesielski was clearly foreshadowing the future courses in the diversity and balance of flavors and textures, particularly the combination of sweet and savory dishes.


The dishes included a gazpacho of tomato and butternut squash, proschiutto and melon skewer, crostini with truffle oil and cherry tomato, a liver and fennel tart, pepper-crusted tuna with goat cheese skewer, and climaxed with a fois gras and bacon lollipop (yes, you read that last one right, more on this in a moment).

The gazpacho was a “noble failure,” mostly in presentation. The luminescent fall-orange liquid was served in a clear, thin test tube. Presented to the guests in a test tube rack rather than a traditional (and useless in this case) serving tray, this was a provocative start to the dinner experience. Alas, the presentation proved the dish’s downfall. How exactly do you eat out of a test tube? You could not “drink” it because the liquid, both chilled and viscous, wouldn’t budge. A straw was not part of the place setting, so sucking it out like a milk shake was apparently not intended. We resorted to upturning the tube over a plate and waited for the liquid to slowly glide out (Carly Simon’s song Anticipation playing in my head now). A few timely shakes helped, but the gazpacho was still dribbling out when the next dish arrived. We spooned up what gazpacho we could get out — it was fresh and well-prepared — and moved on to the next offering.

The highlight of the 1st course was undoubtedly the fois gras and bacon lollipop. This was a round, half-inch scoop of fois gras coated with fresh, crumbled bacon chunks and then impaled onto a toothpick. The salty-meaty flavor and the buttery texture of the fois gras, combined with the crunch and smokiness of the bacon bits, was hedonistic. If there is a foodie heaven where you never get fat, never get tired of eating the same thing, and never worry about daily nutrition, then it would probably feature a never-ending buffet of fois gras coated in bacon chunks.

I suspect the wine pairing choice for this course was particularly challenging. There is just too much going on flavor-wise to choose a traditional “pairing” of wine. So I think Mr. Sammons did something both clever and obvious: choose a traditional aperitif in a sparkling Vouvray Brut. There is enough balance here to work with all the 1st course dishes, but also enough complexity to possibly pick up on some of the dish’s flavors. And although I may be reading too much into this choice of wine, the Vouvray with its sparkling, crisp, and fresh (sometimes called “lemony”) character could almost be interpreted as a palate cleanser between the many and combative flavors of the 1st course dishes.

2nd Course

Food: Tropical ceviche with scallop, shrimp, citrus and serrano

Wine: Henri Bourgeois Sancerre d’Antan ‘05

Ceviche is a dish that often separates foodies from non-foodies. Like many ethnic dishes — sushi, mole, natto — it can be an acquired taste. The typical American diner who frequents restaurants like Outback, Chili’s or even Red Lobster will surely never be presented with ceviche as a menu option. It is a challenging dish both in its consumption and preparation.


Chef Ciesielski’s ceviche was particularly inventive, mainly in presentation. The ceviche was served in a funnel-shaped dish that rested on a circular dish below. The lower dish contained dry ice in liquid that accomplished two purposes—one practical and one for presentation. First, it kept the dish chilled — essential for ceviche. Second, the dry ice made for a swirling, “steaming” presentation at the table. Coming after the test tube gazpacho, I began to think there may be a mad scientist theme to this dinner! The “steam” coming from the dry ice was reminiscent of sizzling fajitas brought to the table at a Mexican restaurant. I half-expected the server to say “Be careful, plate’s hot!” But of course this is a cold dish. I have no idea of Chef Ciesielski meant to elicit such a clash between expectation and reality, but I found it to be unique and creative.

The ceviche itself was of the tropical variety, containing scallops and shrimp, citrus and serrano. The citrus marinade contained lemon, lime, mango, orange and pineapple. The shellfish were properly marinated/cooked — tender and fresh. The citrus was overly sweet — I thought it could have used a bit more tartness for balance. I tasted no flavor of serrano. The wine, a Sancerre known for its tropical notes, was well matched.

3rd Course

Food: Baby pumpkin with crab, green onion, mushroom and red burgundy sauce.

Wine: Camille Giroud Santenay ’05

This dish represented the first overtly fall-inspired dish of the dinner, both in presentation and in the use of a baby pumpkin as the main ingredient. The pumpkin was cooked until sweet and tender. The mixture of Burgundy sauce, mushrooms, crab and green onion was spread on top. The deep, earthy richness of the Burgundy sauce worked well with the sweetness of the pumpkin. The crab meat was an intriguing choice for this dish. I did not taste the flavor of the crab meat. It seemed to be overwhelmed by the Burgundy sauce. But the crab meat introduced an interesting texture to the mixture, adding a firmness that balanced the softness of the mushrooms. My portion lacked in green onions, which would have added a welcome “snap” or “tang” to the earthiness of the Burgundy sauce.

Baby Pumpkin

Also included as part of this dish was a jumbo shrimp on a rustic skewer. This seemed like an afterthought. I imagine that after plating the baby pumpkin for the first time, the dish appeared lacking and the shrimp was brought in to punch things up. I don’t think it hurt or helped the dish.

The real standout for this course was the wine. The Santenay Burgundy was off the charts. It paired well with the Burgundy sauce, the earthiness of the mushrooms, and the sweetness of the pumpkin.

4th Course

Food: Beef medallion with butternut squash and yukon gold potato, with a shallot pepper sauce.

Wine: Chateau Franc Patarabet, St. Emilion Grand Cru ’05

This course, the “entrée” of the dinner, marked a shift in pacing. After the mad scientist fireworks of previous dishes, this dish offered back-to-basics comfort food — good ol’ meat and potatoes. But if you weren’t paying attention, you may have missed a few details. First, the beef medallion was properly seasoned and cooked to a perfect medium rare with nice caramelization. A well-executed steak is not always guaranteed even in the best of restaurants. It is even more impressive here given the improvised kitchen. Similarly well-prepared, the potatoes and squash were crisp on the outside and moist on the inside. But what really pulled it all together was the classic sauce of garlic, shallots and cracked pepper. There was a subtle depth and balance here. The sweetness of the cooked shallots and garlic combined with the spice of the pepper worked well with the beef.

Beef Medallion

The choice of wine matched the dish perfectly. In some wine pairing dinners the knee-jerk choice for any beef dish would be a monster Cabernet Sauvignon. Fortunately, that was not the choice here. A restrained but still full-bodied St. Emilion was well-conceived.

5th Course

Food: Blue Cheese Terrine with dried apricot, fig and pecan

Wine: Les Clos Sacres Savennièrres ’05

Blue Cheese Terrine

After the relative restraint of the previous course, Chef Ciesielski once again amped up the dinner with a terrine of blue cheese (Roquefort), nuts, figs and dried apricots. Once placed in the mouth, the uber-savory blue cheese just went to war with the laid-back sweetness of the nuts, figs and apricot. But the extreme contrasts of the ingredients, both in flavor and texture, ultimately combined into a provocative and successful dish. This culinary détente was helped along by the inspired choice of wine — a Savennières from the acclaimed Nicolas Joly.

6th Course

Food: Apple tart with vanilla ice cream

Wine: Chateau Guiraud “Oriel” Sauternes ’02

For the final course, Chef Ciesielski returned to a familiar, comfort-inducing crowd-pleaser — apple tart with vanilla ice cream. Nothing fancy, nothing tweaked, nothing elaborated upon. As it should be.

Apple Tart

The crust was crisp, flaky and sufficiently carbonized. Proving his French background, Chef resisted the ever-present American temptation to over-sweeten the apple filling, rather letting the natural sweetness of the apple and caramelization do the job. The vanilla ice cream, reportedly made from scratch, added a nice counterpoint to the acidity of the apples.

The accompanying Sauternes dessert wine was an excellent match to the sweetness and acidity of the tart.

Service (7/10)

The service, carried out by 13 Celsius staff, was smooth, skilled and unobtrusive. The smallish, eurocafé-style, round tables were elegantly appointed and mercifully uncluttered. There were a couple of details that could have been improved upon. Not unexpectedly for a one-time, multi-course dinner, the servers were not as familiar with the dishes as they would be in a restaurant. Questions about the food often involved back-and-forth trips between the table and chef. Also, a nicely printed menu would have been a good reference for the guests. And this becomes not only a souvenir for the guest, but also a promotional tool for the host — many foodies will even frame these menus, or at least prominently display them in a scrapbook, diary, or blog.

Atmosphere (10/10)

13 Celsius is one of those rare establishments where once you get in and sit down, you feel like you've left Houston and been transported to a different city or country. For this dinner we could have been in a small café in the Marais district of Paris, sitting at tables pressed against windows overlooking the boulevard outside, dimly lit, with an attentive and harried chef working from a small galley kitchen (I realize that comparing midtown Houston to Le Marais in Paris is a stretch but, hey, I'm a romantic!).

Value (7/10)

Can a $110 wine dinner be a good value? I think most people would say it’s extravagant. It’s both. The same 6 course dinner at any high-end Houston restaurant would cost at least $200. In NYC, probably $300. And those are just the cold, hard numbers. When you factor in the convivial atmosphere, a creative and detail-oriented chef cooking for a small group, and an inspired sampling of low-production, high-quality wines, this was an extravagance at a very reasonable price.

The Bottom Line (9/10)

This wine dinner was successful because the chef put together a menu with an overall vision in mind, balancing and alternating between the sweet and the savory, the traditional and the experimental, the familiar and the unfamiliar, hot and cold, bold and subtle. Similarly, the wine pairings were chosen deliberately and thoughtfully. There was clearly a “method to the madness.” A few things did not work. But that doesn't matter. It only matters that Chef Ciesielski and Mr. Sammons were willing to take risks, to try interesting and creative things, and execute them with care and precision.

My original notes are below:

Notes 1

Notes 2

Friday, November 28, 2008

Link Feast: 11.28.08

Gordo has been making waves (more than usual) across the pond this past week. Anyone surprised by this?

Gordon Ramsay's sly trysts - The newspaper exposé that started it all. Gordo hearts Rupert. More from Rupert.

There are three people in this marriage - Detailed account of Gordo's intertwined family and business dealings.

The repercussions of Gordon Ramsay’s alleged affair - Will Gordo's domestic shortcomings effect his business? No! I decided.

Affairs don’t have to mean the end - While every other Brit media outlet is in a tizzy over the possible downfall of the Gordo's biz empire, the Liverpool Echo has the audacity to consider Gordo's marriage and family. Quaint.

Gordon Ramsay Holdings - Nice website.

Thursday, November 27, 2008

Happy Thanksgiving!

It's either really smart or really stupid for a food blog to completely ignore Thanksgiving.

But that is exactly what I'm going to do. Why? Because virtually every other media and food resource is wall-to-wall, 24/7 Thanksgiving food coverage. The Food Network? It's all Thanksgiving, all the time. Mainstream newspapers? I've never seen so many ways to carve a Turkey. So I'm going to take a break to plan future Houston Foodie topics. So enjoy your Thanksgiving and check back this weekend for new foodie posts.

Monday, November 24, 2008

A Handy Seasonal Food Chart

The busy food writers at the Guardian continue to impress with this simple and comprehensive seasonal food resource.

Seasonal Food Chart

Seasonal menus and seasonal cooking are more popular than ever, which can occasionally challenge even the most dedicated foodie. What should we expect on a seasonal menu? What is traditional, what is provocative? Allegra McEvedy at the Guardian has created a simple, well-designed seasonal food cheatsheet (1.1MB PDF) any foodie can sneak into even the most august of restaurants.

Now if we can only get her to add crawfish (or crayfish as they are more popularly called in the UK) to the Spring Seafood column!

Saturday, November 22, 2008

Link Feast: 11.21.08

Foodies Make Me Sick - Few blog posts have ever stirred more controversy in the foodiesphere. Don't be hatin' on foodies!

Chicken McNuggets turn 25 - Become a Nuggnut!

Yorkshire pudding must be 4 inches tall, chemists rule - They ruled decided.

What does the menu for a $1500, 20-course dinner look like? (PDF) - You'd have to work a few hours overtime and run a couple extra laps to pay this one off. Some background here.

A Interview with Alain Ducasse - Amazing how some of the best chefs in the world never actually cook anymore.

Just when you thought it was safe... - To eat pancakes.

Thursday, November 20, 2008

Canino's Market: Open for Business

NY may have Union Square Farmer's Market and LA may have the pseudo-farmer's market in the Fairfax district, but Houston has Canino's.

Fall is a great time to head over to Canino's market on Airline Drive just inside the North Loop. Although a bit the worse for wear after hurricane Ike, Canino's is still going strong. Combining a dizzying assortment of produce, spices, herbs and even eggs with a rich Mexican-American atmosphere, Canino's is certainly one of the best places for a foodie to spend a crisp fall Saturday morning. I love this place.

Even our foodie friends over at the Houston Press have been transformed into weedeaters after an enlightening visit to Canino's.

Below are a few pics I took on a recent Saturday morning. Enjoy.

Canino Houston


Canino's is currently set up in the smaller "barn" next door to the larger one it is normally in.

Canino Houston

Inside, bins are filled to the brim with fall produce.

Canino Houston

This is a Chayote Squash, prickly variety.

Canino Houston

Peppers, we got peppers!

Canino Houston

Foodie Favorite: Yes

Tuesday, November 18, 2008

McRib is Back!

There are many unexplainable phenomena in our world — UFOs, Bigfoot, Carrot Top. But perhaps none more unexplainable than that culinary equivalent of a Jerry Springer show — McDonald's McRib sandwich.

The McRib sandwich has a long and storied fast food history. It originally test-marketed well in the Midwest, bombed in its national rollout, was taken off the market, and then returned to the market under the guise of no-less than 3 separate "Farewell Tours." Well it's back, as a national TV advertising campaign has made so perfectly clear.


The McRib inspires passionate acclaim from its supporters (here, here and here) and virulent criticism from its detractors. I suppose that provides some explanation for its yo-yo marketing campaign. A visit to website provides further clues as to this current marketing campaign. Proclaiming "saucy love is back," the sandwich is being promoted alongside online music downloads provided by Pandora (shame on you Pandora!, although I suppose you have to make money somehow). With the website featuring a "McRib DJ" and a strong mobile phone marketing camgaign, the current promotions are squarely targeted to teenagers and young people.

So what is an intrepid Houston Foodie to do when confronted with such a peculiar culinary phenomenon? That's right: Taste test!


Let me start by saying I have not been to McDonald's in several years. The way I see it, a foodie setting foot in a McDonald's is kind of like a politician patronizing a titty bar — there's nothing really wrong with it, it just looks bad. So I donned some sunglasses and a baseball cap, pulled down low, and drove to my neighborhood Mickey D's. I ordered the McRib meal (4 bucks and change). I drove home with all 4 windows down, otherwise the McDonald's smell lingers forever. (Side note: Years ago I had a vegetarian girlfriend and on the rare occasion I would sneak in a McDonald's run, the next time we got into the car she would wrinkle her nose and proclaim indignantly, "You went to McDonald's!" I couldn't tell if she was offended or jealous).

Back at home, the evaluation began. Digging the paper-wrapped sandwich out of a clot of bag fries, the first thing you notice is the overwhelming smell of liquid smoke. There is nothing subtle about the BBQ sauce that the McRib sandwich is drowned in. Aside from the standard-issue bun, pickle, onions and sledge-hammer BBQ sauce, the McRib's focus is the "processed pork patty."


This processed pork patty is a wonder of engineering. Processed into a perfect oval shape with fake horizontal bumps representing either grill marks or ribs, it has a similar external texture as a hamburger patty, except the McRib patty has a duller, sicklier gray color.

Biting into the sandwich reveals a texture and consistency like no other worldly substance — variously described as "fluffy" or "mealy". The pork particles (?) seem to be bonded together in a thick, rubbery, gelatin-like suspension. Yummy!

So far, so weird. But what about the taste? Not unexpectedly, the actual flavor of the patty does elicit the slightest pork rib flavor. But after a few bites all you taste is the BBQ sauce. Overwhelmed by the liquid smoke, the patty just becomes a delivery mechanism for the BBQ sauce.

I would venture to say that the real reason hardcore fans of the McRib love it so much is simply the BBQ sauce. It's like a nuclear explosion in your mouth. The pork patty, essentially flavorless, acts as a filler with a unique "mouthfeel."

This may explain some of the unusual geographic marketing of the McRib. McDonald's only makes it available in some areas of the country. Perhaps they focus the marketing in areas that do not have big BBQ traditions so that the McRib BBQ sauce offers a more unique experience? That of course does not explain its presence in Houston, but maybe it does in Omaha. Anyway, just a guess.

After finishing off my McRib, I did indeed feel like I had just watched an episode of Jerry Springer — while it was on I was marginally entertained in an hypnotic, "watching-a-train-wreck-in-slow-motion" sort of way. But then when it was over all I could think was "What the hell was that?!"

Update 12/5/08: The New York Times has a lengthy piece on the McRib and its (un)availability. When it comes to the McRib, if you live in NYC then you're SOL.

Monday, November 17, 2008

The New Yorker finds its Texas BBQ Religion

The New Yorker Food Issue is out and Texas BBQ is front and center.

New Yorker

The New Yorker dispatched none other than the esteemed Calvin Trillin to report first hand on Texas Monthly's BBQ issue. It's an interesting read, although I get a bit nervous when New York or Hollywood types start sniffing around Texas institutions. Heck, half of the Hill Country is now owned by Hollywood folks (thanks for nothing McConaughey!). Fortunately, all the New York hedge fund managers are going bankrupt so even if they did decide to dabble in Texas BBQ they probably don't have the coin to do so. But I can see the headlines now: "Disgraced New York hedge fund manager used embezzled bailout money to buy up top 5 Texas BBQ joints."

My favorite takeaway quote from the article, via former Texas Monthly editor Greg Curtis: "All barbecue experts are self-proclaimed." True, true.

Update 12/11/08: Food fight! Robb Walsh calls into question the BBQ bona fides of both Trillin ("...a Kansas City barbecue fan") and Texas Monthly ("...a magazine run by a vegetarian from Queens"). Oh SNAP! The NY Times wisely withholds judgement on Texas BBQ but throws gasoline on the (mesquite) fire with a mention in the Diner's Journal blog.

Sunday, November 16, 2008

Food Fight 24/7! Biba's vs. Katz's

Biba's One's A Meal lands right in the middle of lower Westheimer, taking on not just one, but two, neighborhood heavyweights.

Biba's One's A Meal

What's not to love about Biba's One's A Meal? It is, after all, a Houston institution. John Katsimikis has been serving up gyros, pizzas, pancakes, opinions, and personal advice to generations of families, hipsters, neighborhood miscreants and drunken party-goers for what seems like forever.

Of course the W. Gray location was showing its age for some time. The announcement that Biba's would be moving to 812 Montrose, in the old Rouge restaurant space, was met with great anticipation by Biba's many regulars.


It seems to be a successful move. A recent Saturday morning visit found John presiding over everything and the tables filled with regulars.

The new location, when considered by itself, looks like a great move. Montrose and Westheimer is a great place for a 24-hour diner. But when taken in context, the location proves to be quite interesting. Not 200 feet away, of course, is the 500 pound gorilla of 24-hour Houston diner/delis — Katz's. Is there enough of a market in this area for two 24-hour diners side-by-side? Probably. Anyway, it should be interesting to watch this competition play out.

But Biba's is not just a diner, it's also a Greek restaurant. And again, the new location is provocative to say the least. Not 2 blocks away is the 500 pound gorilla of Houston Greek restaurants — Niko Niko's. Is there a big enough market for 2 Greek restaurants in such close proximity? Very probably, considering the ubiquitous long lines at Niko's.

Update 11/17/08: Today Alison Cook added Biba's chili cheeseburger to her ongoing list of burger reviews.

Friday, November 14, 2008

Link Feast: 11.14.08

The High Price of Cheap Food - Ironically, high food prices makes Americans fat, not skinny.

Chocolate-covered Bacon - 'nuff said.

Chocolate in the Boondocks - This has foodie road-trip written all over it.

Best Seafood Restaurant: Reef - So says Bon Appetit. They decided. And an excellent decision it was.

Houston-area Restaurants Tightening Their Belts - Pun intended?

Stealthy Shrinking of Containers Keeps Prices from Rising - Just confirms what many of us suspected already.

Grotesquely Overpriced Bunny-food Emporium - Hilarious, Brit-style send-up of Whole Foods.

Thursday, November 13, 2008

Sartin's gets a shout-out from the Dirty South

Errr, I mean the "New South" as defined by the provocatively titled Garden & Gun Magazine.

When I got a tip about an interesting new Southern lifestyle magazine called Garden & Gun, I immediately envisioned big...haired women in American-flag bikinis posing with assault rifles. But to my surprise it was a nicely-designed website with professional features and copy. Promising.

Garden and Gun

Of specific interest was a feature called 100 Southern Foods You Absolutely, Positively Must Try Before You Die. It's a groovy interactive map of the South spotlighting foodie joints. And not just the usual, expected highlights of Southern cuisine, but some real unexpected finds.


Of personal interest to me was one of 3 entries for seafood in Texas: Sartin's in Nederland, home of the all-you-can-eat Barbecue Crab platter. For anyone who grew up in deep Southeast Texas, the name "Sartin's" has a special meaning. Starting with its slogan "Giving people crabs since 1971," the often colorful and always delicious history of Sartin's belies a dedication to a unique culinary art that originated in the tiny town of Sabine Pass, Texas.

A "Barbecue Crab" is, of course, a misnomer. There is no smoke or grilling involved. Back in the 1940s a cook at Granger's Restaurant in Sabine Pass had the inspired idea to take a cleaned blue crab — plentiful along the Gulf Coast — smother it in a dry rub traditionally made up of Sexton's Alamo Zestful Seasoning, and then deep fry it to crispy perfection.

Sartin's Sign

Many years later, in the 1970s, Sartin's Seafood restaurant in Sabine Pass took up the cause and perfected the BBQ Crab with their own secret rub. From there, Sartin's restaurants opened throughout Southeast Texas, including Beaumont where I grew up and came to love the heapin' helpin' of all-you-can-eat BBQ crab.

In the ensuing years, hurricanes and family squabbles have divided Sartin's into the Nederland Sartin's and then a number of Sartin's around Beaumont and Houston. Not unexpectedly, litigation ensued over the Sartin's trademark (if any city has more lawyers than Houston, it's Beaumont).

Business Plan

The original Sartin's Restaurant in Beaumont on the Eastex freeway was toppled by Hurricane Rita in 2005. Many memories of my misspent youth were toppled with it. I remember the long picnic tables decorated only with rolls of paper towels, paper plates, and plastic bibs, with the young waitresses in t-shirts and shorts carrying towering trays of BBQ crabs to your table. Of particular note: this is where the plan for my first business was hatched on November 26th, 1994. Sketched up on the back of a paper plate (rather than on the back of a napkin — it's a SE Texas thing), the presentation didn't exactly impress any VC's so we ended up bootstrapping it. That business is still around today.

If only the original Sartin's could have lasted as long.

Monday, November 10, 2008

New Foodie Destination: Lone Star Culinary

This self-proclaimed "spice market" is a great new resource for Houston's foodie culture.

Lone Star Culinary

Lone Star Culinary
2503 Link Rd. (at Airline, across from Canino's)
Houston, TX 77009

So I was walking back to my car at Canino Market this weekend and glancing across Airline Drive my eye caught the words "spice market." For a foodie, the words "spice market" are always a good sign. Visions of frankincense and myrrh, Marco Polo and the spice road, the Grand Bazaar in Instanbul, spice-laden camel caravans in Yemen all come to mind. OK, this wasn't quite so romantic, but Lone Star Culinary, as this spice market is called, is a great new destination for vicarious foodie travel.


Lone Star Culinary

Once inside, one whole wall of the store is given over to powdered spices. It's an impressive lineup. The store has only been open for about a month so some of the containers have yet to be filled, but the breadth and depth of this spice collection is great.

Lone Star Culinary

The opposite wall of the store is home to an encyclopedic collection of dried herbs, spices and teas. What wall space that's left over is filled with a flat screen TV tuned to the Food Network. Nice touch.

Lone Star Culinary

The center of the store has shelves containing interesting foodie gewgaws and knickknacks, many of an Hispanic and Mexican-American variety.

I encourage all my fellow Houston Foodies to patronize Lone Star Culinary. This is a great addition to the Houston Foodie scene.

Friday, November 7, 2008

Whole Foods gets a bailout; Luby's doesn't - yet

Not unexpectedly, the economic tough times are taking a toll on high-end supermarkets like Whole Foods. But there's always someone willing to throw good money after bad.

Whole Foods

Whole Foods had a bad quarter. No big surprise. Fortunately a sugar-daddy stepped in with a wad of cash to provide the "financial flexibility to manage through these difficult economic times." We'll see.

For a hilarious take on the Whole Foods phenomenon including the recent troubles, check out Tim Hayward at the Gaurdian. He actually called Whole Foods a "grotesquely overpriced bunny-food emporium." And I thought I was hard on Whole Foods!

Meanwhile, Luby's reported a 3.7 million dollar loss for the quarter. Ouch. I guess the price increase hasn't kicked in yet.

Link Feast: 11.7.08

Eat and Tell - Lengthy article about Yelp but nothing we didn't already know.

Regis Philbin as Gordon Ramsay? - One of the more bizarre foodie videos you will ever see. Hey Reg, you could at least use a British accent!

A waiter's tips to New York - Some things never change: Scarfing down a Bistro burger after a late night waiting tables in NY.

Presidential Polling Through Food and Drink - Rumor has it that these polls were more accurate than Fox News polls! Ha!

Campaign Cuisine: See Obama And McCain Eat... A Lot - Can you look presidential while eating porkchop-on-a-stick?

Thursday, November 6, 2008

Foodie Movies: Big Night

Few movies speak to the inner-most passions of the true foodie like cult favorite Big Night.

Big Night Movie

In addition to being an insightful and entertaining film, Big Night, the story of Italian restaurateur brothers in 1950s New Jersey, is loaded with memorable quotes.

"Bite your teeth into the ass of life!"

"A guy works all day, he don't want to look at his plate and ask, 'What the f--- is this?' He wants to look at his plate, see a steak, and say 'I like steak!'"

"Give people what they want, then later you can give them what you want."

All of these quotes and many others help to define the many plot twists, themes and messages of this classic Foodie Movie.


This movie does not reinvent the wheel when it comes to plot and story. It addresses the usual subjects: human relationships between siblings, lovers, husbands, wives, artists, businessmen. However its genius comes from the way it represents those relationships — always within the framework of food, cuisine, cooking, and by extension happiness, pleasure, and passion.

The eclectic but perfectly chosen cast includes the legendary Isabella Rossellini, a then-unknown Marc Anthony, pre-Monk Tony Shalhoub, and the incomparable Ian Holm.

Foodie Favorite: Yes

Tuesday, November 4, 2008

Honeycrisp season is here!

The perfect fruit, perhaps the perfect food, and certainly the perfect apple, is available for a couple of months in the fall.


Honeycrisp apples are now in season and available for a limited time at many local supermarkets. Although my opinions about Whole Foods are well documented, I have to recommend going to the Whole Foods on W. Alabama to get the best honeycrisp apples. Specifically it is the only location I know of that has organic honeycrisps. Central Market did not have any available today but the manager said they were on the way. Disco Kroger had a basket of apples with a honeycrisp sign in front of them, and they looked like honeycrisp, but they were individually labeled as Jonah Gold. Go figure. I'm going to try and make it out to Canino Market this week to see what kind of selection they have.


So what's so great about honeycrisp apples? Basically, they are the perfect balance of sweetness and tartness, with a wonderfully crisp flesh. Extra juicy too. The most common description of these apples is that they "pop" when you bite into them. The skin is a mottled red and green, representing a symbolic combination of Red Delicious (sweet) and Granny Smith (tart) apples. But unlike Red Delicious, whose skin is often thick, waxy and chewy, the honeycrisp skin is thin and tender. All-in-all, just about the perfect snack food.